Things to Do in Sanaa in May

The Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, honestly, one of the most visually astonishing urban landscapes on Earth. More than 6,000 tower houses built from rammed earth and burnt brick rise four to nine stories high, decorated with that distinctive white gypsum tracery that looks like lace pressed into stone. May's dry, clear weather and comfortable 25°C (78°F) afternoons make this the ideal month for slow, unhurried walking through the labyrinth. Start at Bab al-Yemen, the main southern gate, and work north through the suq districts. The smell shifts block by block. Cumin and dried hibiscus near the spice sellers. The sharp tang of leather in the belt-makers' quarter. Woodsmoke and cardamom from the tea stalls tucked into ground-floor alcoves. By late afternoon the shadows between the towers turn cool and blue. The muezzin's call bounces off the walls from multiple minarets at slightly different times, creating an eerie overlapping echo. Go early. By 7 AM, shopkeepers are still splashing water on the stone flagging to settle the dust.

About 15 km (9.3 miles) northwest of central Sanaa, the valley of Wadi Dhahr opens up beneath a sandstone bluff. Perched on a rock pillar above the wadi floor sits Dar al-Hajar, the so-called Rock Palace. It's a five-story structure that looks like it grew out of the stone rather than being built on it. In May the surrounding valley is dotted with green from recent rains. The almond and apricot trees still carry the last of their spring fruit. The drive out from Sanaa takes about 30 minutes on a reasonable road. The palace itself is usually open to visitors. Climb to the top floor for a view down the wadi that stretches to the horizon, with terraced fields stepping down the valley walls in neat geometric lines. The air smells of dust and warm stone and, oddly, honey. There are beehives in the cliff faces. May's moderate temperatures make the rooftop bearable. By June and July the exposed stone radiates heat that makes lingering uncomfortable.

Suq al-Milh, the Salt Market, is Sanaa's oldest continuously operating market, though salt is now the least of what you'll find there. The suq sprawls through the heart of the Old City in a dense warren of stalls organized by trade: raisins and dried apricots piled in pyramids, frankincense and myrrh sold by weight from burlap sacks, curved jambiya daggers displayed on velvet, bolts of embroidered fabric stacked to the ceiling. The sound is a constant low hum of negotiation punctuated by the clang of coppersmiths. May's 33% humidity keeps the spice smells sharp and concentrated rather than dampened. Walk through the incense section and the resinous smoke from burning oud sticks follows you for blocks afterward. The market is busiest from mid-morning to early afternoon, then empties as the qat session begins. Mornings before 9 AM offer the best light filtering through the reed-and-cloth canopies overhead.

The Haraz Mountains, roughly 100 km (62 miles) west of Sanaa, hold some of the most spectacular agricultural terrace systems in the world and a chain of stone villages perched on ridgelines at elevations between 2,000 m and 3,000 m (6,562 to 9,843 ft). The village of Al-Hajjarah sits on a cliff edge with a sheer drop on three sides, its stone houses seeming to grow directly from the rock. May is likely the best hiking month in the Haraz: spring rains have greened the terraces and filled the cisterns. But the trails have dried enough for solid footing, and temperatures at altitude stay cool. The scent of wild thyme and coffee blossoms drifts up from the lower terraces. This is one of Yemen's original coffee-growing regions, and the arabica plants flower in late spring. Expect full-day excursions. The mountain roads require a capable vehicle and an experienced driver.

Socotra, Yemen's extraordinary island archipelago in the Arabian Sea roughly 350 km (217 miles) south of the mainland, operates on a seasonal access window that typically runs from October through May. May is your last realistic month before summer monsoon winds shut down flights and boat access. The island's dragon blood trees, with their mushroom-shaped canopies, are unlike anything else on the planet, and the white sand beaches at Qalansiyah and Shoab are practically deserted even in the accessible season. May brings warm temperatures around 30°C (86°F) at sea level with manageable winds, though seas are choppier than in winter months. This is a multi-day commitment. Plan for at least five to eight days including transit. The island has limited infrastructure but a network of local guides who know the wadis, caves, and swimming holes.